swisswatches-24-days-of-christmas:-top-watches-of-2022

It’s been another extraordinary year for us all, and the watch world is no exception. That is why the Swisswatches team sat down once more to comprise a list of our top watches of 2022. From anniversary models to world records, we are presenting you 24 special highlights to emerge from the ever-surprising Swiss watch industry in 2022. Here’s to yet another year of innovation and beauty in watchmaking – and a very Merry Christmas from all of us at Swisswatches.


Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked “50th Anniversary”


Ref.: 26735ST.OO.1320ST.01

It was not easy for us to define a 2022 highlight from Audemars Piguet. After all, numerous exciting special editions were presented this year on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak. But within the Anniversary collection, the Le Brassus-based horology house also unveiled a series of new tourbillon models in January, featuring new design elements and a new movement. Among them, for the first time, is the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked 50th Anniversary, a fully skeletonised Royal Oak. Each component has been decorated according to all the rules of haute horlogerie, including “traits tirés”, satin finishes, circular and sunray brushing, snailing as well as polished chamfers. The flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock is supported only by the main plate.

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The Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked 50th Anniversary runs with the newly developed calibre 2972, which is based on the calibre 2950 introduced in 2019 for the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet. The geometry of the main plate and bridges were milled out in advance using CNC machines and then refined using electrical discharge machining (EDM). This enables the extremely targeted removal of tiny amounts of material. Particularly beautiful: on the anniversary models, the ‘50 years’ logo and the AP lettering were engraved into the surface of the 22-carat gold oscillating weight.

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Breguet Tradition 7047 in Platinum


Ref.: 7047PT/1Y/9ZU

The horology house Breguet invented the tourbillon in 1801 and still pays special attention to this device today. Not only is a tourbillon, when it appears on the dial side, an eye-catcher in itself: in the case of the Tradition 7047, even its exposed mechanisms are a work of art. It is driven by chain and fusée, becoming a spectacle for the viewer in action.

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The drive via chain and fusée is one of the most fascinating mechanisms for increasing the accuracy of a mechanical watch. In the process, a chain winds around the barrel, which slowly unwinds onto the fusée. As the circumference of the fusée grows as a result, the lever increases. This balances the oscillating torque of the outgoing barrel, ensuring even power transmission to the tourbillon.

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The mechanism can be traced back to the 16th century watchmaker Jakob Zech. Technically, the Caliber 569 at hand is brought up to date with the introduction of a silicon balance spring, as tradition meets modernity. The Tradition 7047 comes with a blue gold dial with a hand-guilloché Clous de Paris pattern. The case, as is typical of Breguet, is made of platinum.


Breitling Super Chronomat Automatic 38 Origins


Ref. R17356531G1S1

For several years now, Breitling has been lauded for its focus on sustainability under CEO Georges Kern. This year, a new eco-friendly piece came to fruition in the form of the Super Chronomat Automatic 38 Origins, which has made waves with its lab-grown diamonds sourced from sustainable suppliers. Likewise, the watch’s 38 mm rose-gold case is transparently sourced, meaning the wearer can check the proof of its origins, from raw material to final product, using a block-chained NFT.

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The Super Chronomat Automatic 38 Origins model is immediately recognisable thanks to a couple of refreshing new touches, which also apply to the other new 38 mm models in the Chronomat collection. This chiefly comprises the introduction of ceramic rider tabs and ceramic on the crown, as well as the contemporary option of a rubber rouleaux strap for the first time in Chronomat history. Naturally, this sustainable Origins model is highly stylish, but first and foremost it is the story behind this watch that makes it so ground-breaking. Breitling are well and truly spearheading the road to sustainable Swiss watchmaking with this very special model, and it certainly gives us hope for the year ahead.

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Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra


Ref.: 103611

With the Octo Finissimo Ultra, Bulgari demonstrated who emerged victorious in the competition as the world’s flattest watch, knocking the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept out of first place. The powerful presence of the front is defined by an engraved QR code on the ratchet wheel of the barrel, with which Bulgari intends to underline the innovative spirit of the watch. With this code, the owner can unlock exclusive content in the Metaversum. Here, the wearer enters a virtual world with exclusive content such as interviews and a 3D flight through the movement, creating a very narrow bridge between the virtual and real worlds.

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In addition, each watch is linked to an NFT artwork that guarantees the watch’s authenticity. With an astonishing overall height of 1.80 mm, the watch manages to create a vibrant interplay between a masculine look and sleek elegance. With its design, Bulgari breaks with old traditions and elevates itself to new dimensions. Innovatively, the Octo Finissmo Ultra uses the caseback as the mainplate on which the 170 components of the BVL 180 calibre are installed. It is also the only watch in this category that can be wound without additional tools.

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Cartier Masse Mystérieuse


Ref.: HPI01471

Cartier’s captivating mystery clocks span back over a century, with 2022 marking 110 years’ production of these mesmerizing creations. First conceived by Louis Cartier alongside watchmaker Maurice Couet, the original floating clocks did not directly link the hands to the movement, but rather attached two crystal discs fitted with serrated metal edges. Activated by the movement, usually housed in the clock’s base, these discs then turned the hands. This construction is similar to the 2022 model, in which the hands float in the space of the case, without being connected to any gears.

Cartier Masse Mysterieuse WHRO0078

With Cartier experts building five different constructions before even launching a prototype, followed by two further prototypes, the Cartier Masse Mystérieuse condenses its skeletonised, gravity-defying calibre intothe oscillating weight itself. Eight years in the making, the 9801 MC uses an ultra-sophisticated differential system to prevent the hour and minute hands from being caught in the mass. Meanwhile, the rotor rotates in both directions at an irregular speed. The reason for this unusual choice of engineering is that the combination of it taking two courses, combined with the unevenness of tempo, ensures that the balance wheel always remains in the same vertical position, no matter where the rotor might be lying as it swings its way around the dial.

Cartier Masse Mysterieuse WHRO0078

The 2022 Cartier Masse Mystérieuse is absolute proof of the phenomenal technical know-how and savoir-faire at the maison’s own horology house, reminding us that this is a brand that well and truly belongs at the top of the complicated Swiss watchmaking game.


Chopard LUC Full Strike Tourbillon


Ref.: 161987-5001

Proudly marking over 25 years of its watch manufacture, Chopard gifted us a trio of new minute repeater watches: the L.U.C Full Strike editions. While for many at Watches and Wonders 2022 the sapphire crystal edition stole the show, we are real fans of the L.U.C Full Strike Tourbillon. Chopard describes its minute repeater watches are ‘horological musical instruments’, even working with musicians such as the Capuçon brothers, who play violin and cello, to produce the perfect sound.

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The L.U.C Full Strike Tourbillon marks a first for the manufacture by integrating both a tourbillon and minute repeater into its movement. It also changes things up by not revealing all of the complicated inner workings, as previous models have done. Rather, the horology house keeps things refined and minimalist in terms of design. Its sole three focus points include a strike-work power reserve (2 o’clock), open-worked tourbillon (6 o’clock), and a view of the hammers (9 to 11 o’clock). On this very well-balanced dial, Chopard really invest in the finishing – a good decision given that this takes up the most surface area. The grey dial’s hand-guilloché floral pattern sits upon a solid gold baseplate and adds an incredibly high-end feel to what is already a remarkable watch by any stretch.

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Likewise, the calibre L.U.C 08.02-L inside is very impressive, featuring a Chopard spiral tourbillon with a sapphire crystal cross-through bridge. Inevitably exquisite finishing, the movement’s decoration includes an untreated nickel mainplate with glowing golden elements, bridges with a Côtes de Genève motif, and 61 jewels. 


H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Bucherer BLUE


Ref. 6804-1200

The creations from the Bucherer BLUE innovation lab are known for being disruptive and unique. Among this year’s innovations, one model in particular stands out, for it is a Streamliner from the Schaffhausen-based watch manufacturer H. Moser & Cie. on which precious stones now sparkle. As if that were not enough, it is an unusual model in several respects: firstly, it is the first ever partner edition of a Streamliner. Secondly, it’s the first steel Streamliner with a built-in tourbillon. Then there are the 60 baguette-cut blue sapphires that snake around the cushion-shaped case.  

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Of all things, setting the idiosyncratic bezel of this watch with gemstones must have been quite the challenge. Steel plus tourbillon plus sapphires: for us, this is a watch with maximum attention factor and a worthy member of our 2022 highlights. Only 18 pieces are available, exclusively from Bucherer for 126,000 euros.

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Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Cathedral Minute Repeater Ceramic


Ref.: 458.CX.1170.CX.YOS

Hublot is known to be a master of materials. Now, ceramic is not a world first in the watch industry, but packing a minute repeater into a ceramic case is quite risky and pretty courageous. The difficulty so far has been to produce a clean and consistent sound with a resonance body made of the extremely hard ceramic.

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With the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Cathedral Minute Repeater Ceramic, Hublot presented the proof against it, and at the same time scored a world first. It appears in white and black, and we chose the black model, as it heralds the arrival of the first Big Bang Integral Ceramic in black. The calibre MHUB8001.H1.RH integrates not only a minute repeater, but also a tourbillon. Hublot implements the minute repeater with ‘cathedral’ tone springs, which are longer than ordinary springs, creating a full sound with reverberation. The only downside is that the 18 pieces are only available in Japan.

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Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Golden Brown


Ref.: LCF044.R5.B1RC1

The independent Swiss maison Laurent Ferrier impressed us this year with a new edition of its Grand Sport Tourbillon, which presents a very successful visual composition in golden brown. To achieve this harmonious look, the brand uses only 18-carat 5N red gold for the integrated case and bracelet. This gives the watch a stunningly warmer touch in comparison to its predecessors. The debut of the first Grand Sport Tourbillon model took place in 2019.

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Once again, a core element of the line is the case shape, inspired by the timelessly elegant curves of racing cars. This is due to the two founders’ love and knowledge of motorsport. In harmony with this, the dial features graduated brown tones, while the indexes and hands reflect the colour of the case and show the time in 5N red gold. This special timepiece is limited to 24 pieces.

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Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty


Ref.: Q11410

To celebrate the watch that has been instrumental in Louis Vuitton’s horological rise – the Tambour – La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton has created an exclusive anniversary model this year: the Tambour Twenty. Paying homage to the original Tambour, the case resembles a drum, creating a symbolic link between music and the rhythm of time. On the 41.5 mm diameter case, the twelve letters of the company ‘Louis Vuitton’ are engraved above the numerals and indexes, just like on the first Tambour Automatique GMT exactly 20 years ago.

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The timepiece is in Louis Vuitton’s signature colours, meaning it has a brown sunburst dial and a long yellow chronograph seconds hand – a nod to the yellow thread used for leather stitching in the past. The three subdials are also in brown. Silver-coloured hour numerals at 12, 2, 4, 6 and 8 o’clock and silver-coloured baton hour markers complete the picture.

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MB&F LM Sequential EVO


Surprsing the entire watch world, Max Büsser, founder of MB&F, presented his first chronograph on May 31 of this year – and it wasn’t just any chronograph, but a completely new type of double chrono with two independently functioning wheel movements, which could be easily synchronized with each other at the push of a button. For this novel and highly complex mechanism, Büsser enlisted the help of master watchmaker Stephen McDonnell. The Irish-born watchmaker was already responsible for the conception of the 2015 LM Perpetual.

MBandF-Legacy-Machine-Sequential-EVO

In a nutshell, for the new LM Sequential EVO, McDonnell developed a kind of double-clutch gearbox (like we know from cars) for a watch to counteract the rigid gearshift scheme of an ordinary chronograph. McDonnell developed two independent chronographs arranged symmetrically about the center axis to switch back and forth between two drive trains. Thus, the multi-chronograph can be switched independently, but also simultaneously, for example, to measure individual lap times. The LM Sequential EVO is also often referred to as a chess clock, since it can be used to record two different total times for player 1 and player 2 during a game of chess.

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Omega Speedmaster Chrono Chime Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph 45 MM


Ref. 522.50.45.52.03.001

The news that Omega was demonstrating its watchmaking abilities with the Speedmaster Chrono Chime sent fans around the world into a frenzy this year. With its unprecedented complication, the novelty clearly heralded the next chapter in Omega’s journey towards ever-new horological innovations. The movement inside the watch is unlike anything we’ve seen before, as it houses the most spectacular movement Omega has ever launched. The Calibre 1932 is the first calibre in the world to combine an integrated chronograph and a minute repeater. However, this is not just any repeater, but instead of hours, quarters and minutes, it displays the elapsed time of the chronograph.

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But the aesthetics of the Speedmaster Chrono Chime are also worth discussing. Notable aspects include the 18-carat Sedna gold case, a blue aventurine enamel dial reminiscent of a night sky – not a feature one would otherwise associate with the Speedmaster models. Also, a guilloché inner bezel and subdials in Omega’s unique ‘exclusive acoustic wave’ pattern. This motif was specially developed to leave behind the Moonwatch’s typical DNA and give the model a completely unique new look. The ‘acoustic wave’” pattern pays homage to the grand complication inside.

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Omega-Speedmaster-Chrono-Chime-45mm-Ref-52250455203001-Strap

Oris ProPilot x Calibre 400


If we ever want a watch with a refreshing splash of colour, Oris is always first port of call. This has once again proved to be the case with Oris’ release of the ProPilot x Calibre 400. The dial options for this new 39 mm watch include blue, grey, or salmon. While only the salmon dial might truly sound colourful, Oris practically add a new meaning to grey and blue thanks to their ingenious finishing of the matt dials with their grainy textures. In combination with the slanted fluted bezels and oversized crowns, these titanium pilot’s watches featuring satin and sandblasted finishing have a truly unique, fairly industrial aesthetic. Under the spirited eye of Rolf Studer, Oris is a master at standing out from the crowd in style – and these new models are no exception.

Oris-ProPilot-X-Calibre-400-Overview-3

As the name suggests, Oris power these new models with the accoladed Calibre 400. This self-winding movement has a staunch power reserve of no less than five days, as well as meeting COSC standards with a deviation between of -3/+5 seconds per day – making this watch highly precise. Another nice touch, especially at this attractive price point of 3,900 euros, is that the case has a sapphire crystal caseback. Wearers can admire the minimalist yet high-quality finishing on the movement, which again has a coolly industrial feel. The Oris logo lies on the large brushed rotor, while the grained mainplate mirrors the aesthetic on the dial. Last but not least, the ProPilot x Calibre 400 watches come with distinctively linked titanium bracelets, securing to the wrist with the help of Oris’ own easy-to-operate ‘LIFT’ clasps.

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Oris-ProPilot-X-Calibre-400-Cover-Salmon-Front-And-Back

Panerai Luminor Due Luna 38 MM


Ref.: PAM01181

Given this is often regarded as an overtly masculine brand, it’s always exciting to see a watch specially dreamt up for Panerai’s female clients. Its triumph of 2022 in this regard has to be the Luminor Due Luna 38 mm, which marks the first time that the Luminor Due collection has integrated a complication into its watches. The line is kicking things off with a moonphase, of which four variations are available – but the star (or should we say moon) of the show has to be the Ref. PAM01181.

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Housed in a glowing ‘Goldtech’ case, Panerai’s own special alloy, the watch case has a deep hue, contrasting beautifully with the blue leather strap. Keeping things elegant, Panerai combine this with a mother-of-pearl dial, with the moonphase placed at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock. The 24-carat Moon itself is a real highlight, with its textured craters corresponding to the actual Moon. The complication, which makes up the most important component of the P900/MP calibre, sits on a rotating disc and showcases a starry midnight blue sky. The real joy of this watch however, is to note Panerai’s achievement in countering the more sporty and masculine elements of the brand’s watches in order to create something beautiful, while nevertheless maintaining Panerai’s unmistakable design DNA.

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Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Steel Platinum


Ref.: PFC905-1020001-100182

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Steel Platinum well and truly captured the hearts of watch enthusiasts and beyond this year. With the main collection dubbed CEO Guido Terreni’s proudest achievement, this flawlessly executed GMT is a lesson for us all in minimalist Swiss watchmaking. Featuring the already iconic (an achievement for something so deliberately subtle) guilloché Milano blue dial, two rhodium-plated hour and minute hands are joined by a rose-gold GMT hand at the mere click of a button.

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This watch marked the first time that a luxury Swiss timepiece had integrated an optional GMT hand that can be swiftly hidden according to the preference of the wearer. The watch brings a special kind of rattrapante to the table – as confused wearers of a chronograph will point out, there’s no seconds hand to be seen here. Rather, the patented split GMT function operates via a pusher on the side of the case, displaying both times with the help of the two hands displaying simultaneously local and home time.

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Meanwhile, the rattrapante pusher integrated into the crown resets the two hands back to the home time, with the rose-gold hand promptly disappearing. While the white-gold hand shows the local time, the rose-gold addition steadfastly displays the home time. It’s fair to say that this is a hugely complicated watch, yet it is encased in a 40 mm platinum vision of simplicity. Making this feat possible is (aside from the ingenuity of Terreni and his watchmaking department) is the calibre PF051.


Patek Philippe Nautilus 5811


Ref. 5811/1G-001

The social media phenomenon of the Patek Philippe Nautilus was further played upon with the launch of the latest addition of the Nautilus 5811/1G-001 this year. A familiar sight, yet different in many ways, Patek Philippe has given the 5811/1G-001 a case that is one mm larger; the overall height here is 8.2 mm. This does not make it significantly larger than the 5711 at 40 mm, but it is also even 0.1 mm flatter than its predecessor. This makes a difference.

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But what definitely sets the reference 5811/1G-001 apart from the legendary steel Nautilus 5711 is its discreet white-gold material. If you count yourself among the few people who get to see the Nautilus 5811 not only on Instagram but also in real life, you’ll notice the rich blue hue on the sunburst dial, which is even more vivid compared to the old versions.

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Patek Philippe Tenth of a Second Monopusher Chronograph


Ref.: 5470P-001

For many, the new Nautilus 5811 may be the most important new release from Patek in 2022. All well and good, after all, a successor was eagerly awaited for the discontinued 5711. But for us, the 5470P-001 is at least as exciting a masterpiece from the Geneva manufacture. Not only is it picture-perfect, but it is also technically highly advanced. For the first time, Patek Philippe is launching a wristwatch that allows the measurement of tenths of a second. In order to be able to read the time intuitively, two hands make their rounds on the dial at the same time.

Patek-Philippe-Grand-Complications-5470P-001-Monopusher-Chronograph-Tenth-of-a-Second

For this highly complex timepiece, the watchmakers developed the calibre CH 29-535 PS 1/10, based on the CH 29-535 PS, a chronograph movement with horizontal coupling and ratchet wheel control. To make the measurement of the tenth of a second possible, they increased the frequency of the balance to 5 Hertz. The in-house Oscillomax ensemble inhibits the energy while achieving a rate accuracy of -3/+2 seconds per day.

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And then there are those drop-dead gorgeous aesthetics. The case is made of platinum, with a diameter of 41 mm at a height of 13.68 mm. The dial is brass and lacquered blue with neatly applied pearl indexes in white gold. The red nuances for the second hand, on the minute track or on the decorative seam of the bracelet are visually in perfect harmony with the blue lacquered dial and the embossed navy blue calfskin strap.

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Porsche Design Chronograph 1 – 1972 Limited Edition


Ref.: 6041.7.01.001.01.5

It was a particularly important year for Porsche Design: 50 years of the Chronograph 1 from 1972, the first and thus ultimate Porsche Design watch. It is also considered the world’s first all-black watch. Porsche Design went wild with numerous special anniversary models – and we celebrated with them and have also fallen prey to the Porsche Design fever. The birthday marathon started in January with the Chronograph 1 – 1972 Limited Edition. “This watch had been missing – but now it’s back,” said Roland Heiler, Managing Director of Design Studio F.A. Porsche at the presentation. We think so, too, and that’s why we’ve dedicated a coveted spot to it in our 2022 highlights.

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The new one looks amazingly similar to the original, which will especially please loyal horological fans of the brand. The subtle changes to the model, which is limited to 500 pieces, are hidden, or can only be felt by touching. For example, while the tachymeter scale and the day and date display are kept exactly in the typography of 1972, the case, bracelet and clasp are now made of titanium. The new model is powered by the WERK 01.140 calibre, while a Lemania 5100 worked in the first chronographs. So, the original watch is back and is here to stay: to keep alive the history of Porsche Design for many years to come.

PD-50Y-Chronograph-1-1972-LE-Wristshot

Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari


Ref.: RM UP-01

The year 2022 brought us numerous achievements in the ultra-thin watch sector. A few weeks after the announcement of the groundbreaking Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra, Richard Mille proved the new champion in the race for the world’s thinnest watch with the RM-UP-01. With a height of a visionary 1.75 mm, the watch even undercut the thickness of a 2-euro coin and still managed to embody everything that defines a Richard Mille: its light weight and shock resistance.

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RM-UP-01-Ferrari-Comparison

To take on the challenge of ultra-flatness, Richard Mille even broke with their established aesthetic codes. One glance at the watch and you quickly realise that the technology dictates the aesthetics here and not the other way around. In contrast to its competitors, Piaget and Bulgari, the RM-UP-01 follows a more traditional approach in its construction, with the movement sitting on its own base plate rather than being integrated into the case back. The result of the collaboration between Richard Mille and Ferrari is a watch that is both disruptive and innovative, while once again reminding us of Richard Mille’s innovative spirit.

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Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Pirelli Monotourbillon


Ref.: RDDBEX1036

Roger Dubuis never fails to produce the most adrenaline-fueled of timepieces, and its bold Excalibur Spider Huracán Monobalancier White MCF 45mmis no exception. Celebrating Pirelli’s 150th anniversary, the unapologetically out-there watch uses Mineral Composite Fibre for the case – an in-house innovation borne of the watchmaker’s legendary Q Lab. Significantly easier to machine than ceramic, the material is nevertheless 13 percent lighter than carbon, making the material’s entry into the watch industry a valuable one. Furthermore, the composite fibre has been developed to keep its whiteness over the years, presenting Research and Development with the hurdle of developing high resistance to UV rays, which can cause yellowing over time. Unsurprising, and as is ever the way at this boundary-pushing brand, they succeeded.

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The two other defining features of this watch sit enshrined together: a flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock and power indicator circling around it, evoking a car’s fuel gauge. The watch is every bit Excalibur in its DNA, from the innovative use of material to the skeletonised, futuristic dial exposing its highly decorated movement and star-shaped bridge – all of which leads to its proud bearing of the revered Poinçon de Geneve.

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Rolex Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge


Ref.: M126067-0001

With the launch of the Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challengethis year, Rolex once again revived an old idea of yore: the watch as a professional tool. The new release wowed us with its 11,000-metre water resistance as the world’s most water-resistant watch. It was also the first time that Rolex used titanium RLX for the material instead of their well-known Oyster steel. The case also boasts some watchmaking refinements and a height of 23 mm that is second to none. The titanium case, ringlock system and helium escape valve make this the most pressure-resistant tool watch ever made.

Rolex-Oyster-Perpetual-Deepsea-Challenge-Front-View

Tudor Ranger


Ref.: M79950

Beloved by a vast variety of people, the TUDOR Ranger offers a daringly different option to men looking to branch out from their treasured Black Bay.  The ultimate tool watch, taking its inspiration from a 20th-century expedition to Greenland, it’s a simple yet box-ticking option for those wanting a no-frills-attached, highly reliable watch on their wrist. What’s more, the three highly contrasting strap options (stainless-steel bracelet, NATO strap, or hybrid rubber-leather strap) mean this self-effacing watch can be swiftly transformed to match the whims of its owner.

TUDOR-Ranger-2022-1960s-Model

The TUDOR Ranger gets points first and foremost for its excellent legibility thanks to the broad dial, slim bezel, bold luminescent numerals and red-tipped seconds hands. The movement also deserves a mention. First introduced in 2018, the self-winding mechanical movement MT5402, with its bidirectional rotor system, prioritises robustness, longevity, and reliability. Thanks to the integration of a variable-inertia balance, held in place by a bridge with two points of fixation, the calibre is notably precise. The in-house calibre makes its starting price point of 2,550 euros highly competitive – not to mention the most affordable TUDOR timepiece to integrate a manufacture movement. The TUDOR Ranger certainly lends itself to the emerging drift towards the humble steel watch and it will be fascinating to see how its popularity further develops over time.

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Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222


Ref.: 4200H/222J-B935

For us, the reinterpretation of the 222 is one of the most understated highlights of this year. It bears a striking resemblance to the original model, so much so that one could almost think it was an identical replica. But this is not the case: it retains the aesthetic codes of its ancestor, but has been equipped with some new technical features.

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Because inside the watch ticks the ultra-modern manufacture calibre 2455/2 with a power reserve of 40 hours and a frequency of 4 Hz. For comparison, the original model from 1977 had a frequency of 2.75 Hz. The oscillating weight, which can be seen through the open caseback, bears an engraving of the original 222 logo. To emphasise the visual composition, the bridges were decorated with Geneva stripes and the main plate was pearled.

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In the Royal Oak’s big anniversary year (50 years), Vacheron Constantin wants the 222 to remind the competition that they were instrumental in the 1970s run on luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets.


Zenith Calibre 135 Observatoire Limited Edition


Ref.: 40.1350.135/21.C1000

Zenith caused something of a horological coup this year when it announced a collaboration with none other than master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen and auction house Phillips. The collaboration was prompted by the historic Calibre 135-O, which won the most awards in chronometer competitions in the history of watchmaking in the middle of the last century. Zenith donated ten historic examples of the Calibre 135 and placed it in the hands of Kari Voutilainen who, together with his team, carefully restored it.

Zenith Calibre 135 Observatoire Limited Edition

In the process, neither the original construction nor the regulating organ were touched. Instead, they decorated the movements with beveled and polished edges, polished screw heads, circular grinding on the main plate and snailed brushing on the ratchet wheel. The noble dial of Zenith Calibre 135 Observatoire Limited Edition is inspired by references of the manufacture from the 1950s. The slightly domed black sterling silver dial features a fish-scale pattern guilloché. The hands are made of gold, the 38 mm case of platinum. Only ten pieces are sold exclusively at Phillips together with Bacs & Russo.

Zenith Calibre 135 Observatoire Limited Edition